As they say, “There are no coincidences.” Who knows if the people of the Bronx would ever get to savor the aromatic wine from the Hudson Valley if Anthony Milea hadn’t emigrated to the U.S. many years ago? Or if his grandchildren hadn’t established a truck leasing business? Or if they hadn’t experimented with farming and tried growing grapes on the family farm just for fun? One way or another, everything happened as it did. Today, we’ll tell you the story of how ambitious Italians established a winemaking empire in the Hudson Valley and why they chose the Bronx—a relatively unprestigious part of New York City—to sell their premium products. Read more at bronxname.
Winemaking in New York State
New York State has seen several attempts to develop its winemaking industry over the years: vineyards were planted, investments were made, and processing stations were built. However, the reputation of New York wines was less than stellar. They often turned out overly sweet, lacked depth, and failed to impress sommeliers. The climate was always a challenging factor for winemakers who ventured into this area. It required careful navigation of humidity and temperature fluctuations, with precise adjustments in vineyard care.
Despite the challenges, New York’s terroir holds promise. The local climate, terrain, and soil closely resemble those of France’s Burgundy region. By properly optimizing each grape variety for the existing terroir, it’s possible to produce high-quality, flavorful wine. The Milea family proved this point.
How It All Began
In 1908, a devastating earthquake struck Messina, Italy, followed by a massive tsunami that destroyed Anthony Milea’s home. Seeking a better life, Anthony immigrated to the United States. By 1920, he had settled and purchased a small farm in the Hudson Valley—a quaint house dating back to 1747 in the quiet village of Staatsburg. Incidentally, the house once belonged to Reuben Spencer, a colleague of George Washington. Anthony built a family there and lived a tranquil life, enjoying working and relaxing in his expansive garden.
As Anthony’s children grew older, they sought the excitement of city life, and the farm was eventually sold.
However, Anthony must have instilled a love of the land in his descendants. Decades later, in 1984, his grandson and great-grandson, Joe and Barry Milea, repurchased the old family farm to honor their heritage. The 27-acre property, complete with a cozy house and apple orchard, became a cherished retreat for the family after hectic weeks in the city. Over time, they found more and more reasons to stay at the farm, one of which was the decision to try growing grapes.
From Apples to Wine
It all began with five rows of experimental grapevines, and soon enough, Barry Milea became deeply passionate about viticulture and winemaking. He partnered with Ed Evans, a retired NYPD officer from the Bronx who now manages the farm, and Bruce Tripp, a local winemaker. Together, they expanded the vineyard and steadily grew their operation. Barry’s wife, Sang, also became actively involved.
It’s worth noting that wine was not particularly popular in the U.S. until the 1970s, mainly consumed by immigrants. As a result, few people were eager to invest in winemaking, especially in a challenging region like New York State. The lack of competition and the rising popularity of the “farm-to-table” movement across America allowed Milea Estate Vineyard to secure a leading position in the market.
Milea Estate Vineyards
Today, the Milea family grows several grape varieties on their farm, including classics like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Riesling. They also cultivate the legendary Austrian white grape Grüner Veltliner and the red Blaufränkisch, prized in Germany and Central Europe. The family’s pride lies in two premium varieties unique to the Hudson Valley: the French-American Traminette and the German-American Regent.
When asked, “What’s your favorite grape?” Barry never names a specific variety. “Our Pinot Noir is excellent, and I love the Cabernet Franc,” he says, “but it’s like asking a parent which child they love more.”
The farm also continues to grow apples and produces cider in three variations: dry, extra dry, and barrel-aged.
The vineyard now spans 102 acres, up from its original 27, and the team keeps expanding. Notable additions include winemaker River Allan, chef David Kim (formerly of NYC’s Bouley), and manager Mina Do (who held leadership roles at Bouley, Nomad, and The Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare).
The production is led by Russell Moss, a former Cornell University viticulture faculty member and winemaking consultant to Bhutan. Milea Estate Vineyard has already garnered numerous awards and accolades.
Milea Estate’s Connection to the Bronx
To understand how an elite vineyard in the Hudson Valley became tied to the Bronx, we must look back. Before buying back his grandfather’s estate, Barry Milea built his career in this borough. The Milea name is synonymous in the Bronx not with wine but with trucks—large commercial vehicles seen frequently on city streets.
Barry grew up in the Bronx and worked as a driver and in construction for many years. Living in a small apartment, he worked 18-20 hours daily, only returning home to sleep. In the 1980s, Barry launched a truck leasing company in the Bronx, seeing a high demand for the service with little competition. The business thrived.
One of Barry’s pivotal decisions was to focus on eco-friendly trucks after noticing a surge in asthma cases in the Bronx. This led to the establishment of Milea’s fleet of electric trucks.
Many of Milea’s trucking clients were in the restaurant industry, and when Barry ventured into winemaking, it was a natural choice to market his Milea Estate Vineyard wines to Bronx restaurants.
Bringing the Hudson Valley to the Bronx
Barry Milea fondly remembers the Bronx, where he lived for many years, built a successful business, and found love. Though 80 miles now separate him from the borough, he felt compelled to share his latest success with its residents.
“I want this region to thrive. Our products should be in Bronx restaurants. As my farm is in the Hudson Valley and I enjoy it there, I want to bring that experience to the Bronx and New York City. That’s my goal. We aim to bring the Hudson Valley to the Bronx, so its residents can feel what we feel here,” says Barry Milea.
With Milea Estate Vineyard, Barry and Sang Milea have fulfilled their dream of delivering sustainably produced regional wines to New York’s finest restaurants while supporting local farmers in the Hudson Valley.